Friday 23 October 2009

Trout and lamb

A couple of weeks ago I was in Queenstown and Tim, one of my old friends from Wellington was over from the UK, sadly for his grandmother's funeral. Back in Wellington we'd been fishing a few times and we agreed to catch up and spend a day trout fishing around Tim’s old family farm.

I’d never been fly fishing before, but Tim is an old hand at it and knows the river like the back of his hand, so we parked the car outside the Garston pub and hitchhiked 5 miles south to slowly walk our way back upriver and see what we got. Before setting off Tim asked me how I felt about catching a killing trout. I told him that though I’m a vegan, I believe “if you’re going to eat it you should be prepared to kill it! And besides, trout tastes fantastic.”

Tim is a great teacher, patient, encouraging and kind, and I soon had the basics down, but not until Tim had emulated my mid-90’s, hook-through-the-lip feat. It was hard not to laugh. The river was beautifully clear, but trout are very well camouflaged, and while Tim spotted about 30 or more trout during the day, I spent most of it replying to his enthusiastic “Can you see it? There by the …” with unconvincing calls of “Ah, I think so.” all while gazing in entirely the wrong direction. All up I reckon I spotted about two trout before he did, plus a handful of submerged rocks, a few shadows and a couple of eddies. Tricky stuff this fly fishing – and we haven’t got to the act of fishing itself yet.

After spotting a feeding fish Tim would direct me out of the danger zone and then set into his work. Working the rod back and forth he’d extend the line and send his fly arcing out across the water landing it within inches of the trout. All too often the trout would take a look at the fly, think “Nah. I’m not eating that today.” and simply ignore Tim’s efforts.

I had a couple of goes and managed to lose flies left, right and Chelsea. In bushes and trees but more often than not simply broken off the end of the line when I’d begin my forward thrust too early and the line, like a whip tip, would crack and the fly would break away.

After a few hours of traipsing up river, from trout to trout, through fields with ewes and their new born lambs, a few lost flies and many disinterested trout, Tim finally got a the right fly into the right position by a hungry trout. It gobbled the fly and Wham! Tim struck.

The battle was on. I got the landing net but the bank we were fishing on dropped into the river where the water was flowing fast. Several times Tim managed to work the fish to within inches of the net but try as I might, I couldn’t get the net around the fish. The current was strong and the trout would recover enough strength to swim away. My dry feet policy went west after about five minutes – surely one foot in the drink was worth it for Tim to land his fish. One foot soon became two and the three of us, Tim, trout and I played out a scene worthy of Last of the Summer Wine.

One attempt and I missed. Two, and then three and still I couldn’t steer the net around the trout. Then it ran downstream and the line passed over my shoulder. “You’re in the line. Don’t break it!” cried Tim. Ducking and weaving I tried to avoid the line, keep my feet and spot the fish. If my flailing around broke the line the trout would be gone. Then, there it was, only three feet behind me. “Watch out! The line’s under your arm!” Tim called. “Bugger the line,” I thought, “there’s the fish!” and I stepped forward, and in one (I picture it as graceful) movement scooped the fish up and deposited it and the net onto the bank. One beautiful 3lb brown trout.

The thrill of the kill soon wore off as I watched Tim bludgeon the trout with a stout stick. A quick killing, but still not nice. The joy on Tim’s face, his little-boy-at-Christmas-look, dispelled my feelings. I was spending a great day with a great friend enjoying something he truly loves. The skill and effort he’d shown to get his (and my) dinner, the patience, grace and care he’d shown seemed to balance things out.

With one in the bag we continued up river. I had a couple more goes for a grand result of two more lost flies and Tim, though spotting about a dozen in one short stretch, got no more bites.

Around three in the afternoon I spotted a young lamb caught on a ledge above the river on the far bank. It was about a foot above the water and three or four feet from the top of the river bank. I couldn’t see any way for it to get out. Eventually it would end up in the water and get washed downstream. As far as I could see the banks downstream were too steep for it to clamber out and for all I know sheep aren’t the strongest swimmers. “Is that lamb gonna die?” I asked Tim, pointing to it. “Yeah,” he replied and seeing the look on my face asked “Do you want to try and rescue it?” We could see the lamb’s mother pacing above it, unable to spot her child, bleating plaintively. Every so often the lamb would muster enough energy to call back.

There was nothing for it. Time to repay the trout. I rolled up my trouser legs, took off my jacket and stepped into the river. It was cold, but my earlier wading meant my feet were already numb. Tim advised me to approach the lamb from behind which meant heading downstream a bit as I crossed and then moving up to it against the current. The water was beautifully clear so I could see where to place my feet as I crossed. It didn’t look too deep, but as it rose to my knees and then halfway up my thighs I had thoughts of Billy Connelly’s “and then it kissed the underside of my bollocks” line. I couldn’t back out though. Luckily, I ended up with a few inches of freeboard between water and tackle and made it to the far bank.

Having got there I thought “Now what do I do?” I’d never picked up a lamb before. “Where should I grab it?” I called across to Tim. “When you get close, it’ll try to get away. So grab it behind the shoulders, under the arms.” That wasn’t in the script. I’d pictured a compliant lamb, helping me to help it, not a struggling, wrestling mass of sodden lamb’s wool, muscle and bone, writhing to get away.

Edging forward, my hands stretched out in front of me, I urged the lamb “It’s okay, little fella, I’m here to help you.” The poor thing was so cold and exhausted it didn’t move until I clutched it behind the front legs. Then it tried to bolt. Holding on for dear life, I hoisted it up and swung it in one motion above me over my head, launching it onto the bank. It was heavier than I expected and part way through my throw I thought I wasn’t going to get in up onto the bank so I added some extra force. The lamb sailed through the air and disappearing from view, landed with a mighty thud on the bank. “Oh shit,” I thought. “Nice one, Stu. You’ve killed it.”

Wading back across the river I could see Tim watching from the bank. His face was lit up and he called to me, “Quick. Look. It’s beautiful, mate.” I turned but was still too close to the bank to see what was going on. Tim told me later that the lamb sprang to its feet and the mother and lamb ran towards each other, bleating, to meet up. By the time I’d got to the other shore the lamb was happily feeding and the mother had that typical ewe’s nonchalant “I’m being suckled on” face.

I was a beautiful sight and I felt really proud of myself. I’d killed a trout and saved a lamb. I think they balance out. Sure at some point the lamb will end up on someone’s dinner table, but for now it’s with its mum. And the trout? It tasted fantastic.

Wading back across the river I could see Tim watching from the bank.His face was lit up and he called to me, “Quick. Look. It’s beautiful, mate.” I turned but was still too close to the bank to see what was going on. Tim told me later that the lamb sprang to its feet and the mother and lamb ran towards each other, bleating, to meet up. By the time I’d got to the other shore the lamb was happily feeding and the mother had that typical ewe’s nonchalant “I’m being suckled on” face.

It was a beautiful sight and I felt really proud of myself. I'd killed a trout and saved a lamb. I think they balance out. Sure at some point the lamb will end up on someone's dinner table, but for now it's with its mum. And the trout? It tasted fantastic.

Thursday 16 July 2009

Sesame Street songs

Is my mind turning to mush? On the way to school today I caught myself singing the Sesame Street classic "Who are the people in your neighbourhood?" Now I'm wasting time at school looking for it on Youtube so it can be on my myPod. And I found a lovely picture of Ernie and Bert with the rubber ducky - an even better song!

Too much mush. Too much. I've got to start a lesson plan.

Thursday 9 July 2009

Trying to upload a movie

Having seen films on other people's sites I thought it was about time to try putting up one of my own. So as a trial, and only as a trial, here's a very short film (a filmette?) I made in the computer lab.



And it works! So now I can go home and make a quick film of my new gaff and put it on the web.

One of my papers here at uni is about using ICT in the classroom so I'll have to start making more use of the inter-ma-net. This is a sort of first step, I suppose. How connected is that?! I am a geek! I AM a geek!

Which has brought to mind today's myPod update "Computer Games" by Mi-Sex. I really only remember the chorus "Com-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-puter-puter, puter games
Com-pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-puter-puter-puter-puter, computer games."

Monday 6 July 2009

Meika and Monsters Inc.

Last Friday night Vaughan asked me if I'd mind looking after Meika for the evening while he went and helped his partner Melissa and her two kids who were all sick. He left me with plenty of instructions and checked up via text, but we had a great evening together watching a DVD.

Meika picked Monsters Inc. which is one of my favourites. Meika hadn't seen it before and it was great to watch it for the first time with a four year old. Her favourite words seem to be "How come?" which she offers up whenever she's asked to do anything, or has something explained to her, or encounters anything new. She's definitely curious and that's brilliant but it can be frustrating at times.

At one point in the movie Meika asked me who the scary monster was. "It's Randall," I replied. She looked a little thoughtful and then said "Denise has a Randall." Which is true as our auntie Denise is married to our uncle Randall. I said "That's right. This is another Randall." To which she replied "So there's two Randalls."


Later on, when Sulley takes Boo back to her room and says goodbye, Meika turned to me and said "I cry when the movie gets sad." I nearly cried myself. Luckily being a good Pixar picture there's the happy ending. And afterwards Meika put up no fight as we read her book from day care, brushed our teeth and she got into bed - while I set about tidying up!

Anyway, here she is....

Wednesday 1 July 2009

July

Back in March I read Grazia magazine's horoscope for me for 2009. It said

"It’s all about July. Love, career and money."

Pretty clear then and now that July has rolled around I'm waiting expectantly for all of them.

I'm not just sitting around waiting mind. My teacher training course starts on the 6th so that's the career part crossed off. I've got an interview with a company that tutors kids in maths so that should look after the money side. As for love? Well two out of three ain't bad and given that I'm doing the work to get those two, I reckon Grazia or the stars or whoever's responsible for horoscopes and their outcome, can put in the effort for the Love part.

So I'll just have to see what happens on number three....

Sunday 28 June 2009

The Rugby

What is it about men and sport? Why are we so addicted? How can the result of a game played by men who are, at the game at least, far superior to the rest of us have such an impact? The book, and subsequent movie – the UK version not the American one - ‘Fever Pitch’ by Nick Hornby is a semi-hilarious look at this phenomenon. And a good insight for all women into the grip sport can have over men.

Every time I watch a game of rugby involving either my domestic team, Otago, or my national team, the All Blacks, I go through the same set of feelings; pre-game nervous anticipation, gut wrenching anxiety and childlike hopefulness. Worry that we’ll lose and hope that we’ll win. Then abject despair if it’s the former or tempered elation if the latter.

Even as I write this it’s apparent that the team and I are intrinsically linked. I’m typing “we’ll win” rather than “they’ll win”. And when “we” do win there’s never that complete and utter joy. We could have always done better.

So on Saturday night I sat at AMI Stadium here in Christchurch and watched one of the worst wins of my life. We were woeful against Six Nations minnows Italy. The All Blacks have a winning record unmatched by any other national team in any other major international sport. They’ve won something like 75% of all their international matches. Yet they continue to let the nation down. Not since the first Rugby World Cup have we been deemed World Champions and now we run out against Italy and scramble through a bumbling effort to win 27-6. Pathetic. Hopeless. Embarrassing. And most importantly not an encouraging sign so close to the Tri-Nations fixtures against the other two rugby supremos Australia and (World Champions) South Africa.

My brother managed to let everyone in earshot know how he felt. Individual players and even some of the lacklustre spectators were offered an array of advice. At one point I offered to buy our first five an air ticket so he could “piss off back to France”. But we had fun. The game wasn’t the try scoring festival it should have been, but Vaughan, his partner Melissa and I had a few beers and enjoyed each other’s company. I got more entertainment from Vaughan’s antics than the All Blacks so I walked away happy. Glad that I’d spent the evening with people I love but saddened to be let down by the team I love. As rugby slips further and further into the realm of entertainment maybe the New Zealand Rugby Union should look to field a side made up of blokes like my brother who can truly entertain rather than a team of 15 who seem to have only mastered the art of looking hopeless.

Wednesday 24 June 2009

myPod update

The myPOd is long overdue for an update.
For some reason this song is going round and round in my head

Men at Work - 'I can see it in your eyes' from the album Business as Usual. Men at work are best known for their hit Down Under which is played over and over in walkabout pubs throughout the UK, but the rest of the album's great too. It was the first one I bough twith my own money. On vinyl. Back in the 80's. Ah, nostalgia.....

A few old photos

I've finally got round to scanning a few of my older photos. They're favourites from earlier travel days. Pre-digital. Some are even from slides. Kodachrome 64 for those in the know. A fantastic slide film that is no more.



Sossusvlei, Namibia


Lioness, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania


Zebras, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia


And my favourite...

Pakistani girl, Peshawar, Pakistan

Thursday 18 June 2009

Cooking up a storm

Sorry for being away from the blog for so long, but I've been rushing aorund like the proverbial fly with a blue bum! In between enrolling at uni and doing reading assistance at my cousin's primary school I've taken over the cooking duties at my brother's place. And I think I've been doing a pretty good job, even if his daughter eats just the nacho chips and the sour cream and leaves the beans and mince. Not that my cooking is Ramsey class yet, but if I can offer one hint it's this. Lots of loud music. And I find dancing along to Jamiroquai's "Canned Heat" works best.

Tuesday 2 June 2009

New Brighton Beach

Ah the joys of the long weekend. What the Brits would call a Bank Holiday happened here this last weekend - no school and no work on Monday so we could celebrate the Queen's birthday by shopping. Funnily not even the Brits get a day off for Liz's birthday but out here in the furthest reaches of the Commonwealth, we do. Like with Amex, membership, does have it's privileges.

Not being too keen to face the crowds and being a bit tight with my money, I decided to brave the typically cold winter's day and ride out to New Brighton. I'd spent a couple of days observing at one of the primary schools there and was going to go back for more, so thought I'd see what it would be like to ride over. It's flat and only a half hour ride, but if the sub-zero mornings I've been waking up to continue, I think I'll be busing!

The school's only a few minutes for the beach so I rode over for a look. It's stunning and despite the weather there were many surfers in the water and people walking dogs along the beach. The light was really good and I managed to get these photos.



Thursday 28 May 2009

Poor dolly


I've spotted this poor wretch a couple of times. Abandoned near the side of the road she lies in the rain a victim of society's neglect for those no longer loved.

Battery Life

Way back in 2003 I had the misfortune to spend a bit of time at the duty free in Dubai airport. I was on the way from Tanzania to Turkey to start work for Oasis Overland with my good friend Emily Newman. We were both very excited to be off to Turkey and yet really bored to be stuck in Dubai so as a way to chew up the time we hit the duty free stores. They were massive and, like casinos and other duty free areas, hid all of the signs of the outside world. It was a shiny, sparkly glass and chrome set-up with no hint of what time of day or night it might be. Eventually we ended up purchasing a watch each. After all, why not?

Emily went for an oversized Casio Pathfinder series watch with multiple bells and whistles: altimeter, barometer, thermometer, stop watch, compass, alarms ....


I went for a Tissot T-Touch. With almost as many bells and even a couple more whistles, the only major difference seemed to be the T-Touch's touch screen activation of fuctions versus the Casio's solar power. I took great delight in showing off the touch screen, while Emily kept reminding me that one day I'd need to replace the battery while her watch kept on going.

Well that day's come. Nearly six years later I've had the battery replaced. And what of Em's watch? Well a couple fo years ago it started to lose a few of the bells and whistles as one by one the functions started to play up and now the watch is in the hands on her nephew.

I still love the T-Touch even if it's on its second battery and doesn't tell me the day of the week. I'll be interested to see if it survives another six years.

Thursday 21 May 2009

Cold as Ice

It's freezing here and I thought the current myPod song deserved a post. Foreigner's "Cold as Ice"

Wednesday 20 May 2009

I'm only the driver

Before setting off overlanding back in 2001 I needed a bus driver's licence. As I was in the UK at the time I surrendered my NZ car driving licence for a British one and then took the bus driving test. All easy peasy. My UK licence has taken me all over; India and Nepal. Turkey, Syria and Jordan. Even Zimbabwe, Ethiopia and Lesotho, so I was a bit shocked to find that all of the driving I've done in NZ since 2004 has been illegal.

My understanding was that holders of overseas driver's licences could drive here for 12 months no worries. And almost all of them can. But not me. Because I'd previously had a NZ driver's licence and that had, in NZ, now expired, I was driving illegally. If I was stopped I could have been fined and the car impounded! Oops! So to all the people who've let me drive their cars here over the last five years, "sorry". To the rental company I hired a car from ... "More fool you."

So now I've got to apply again for a NZ driver's licence, but because it's within 90 days of returning from overseas I don't have to resit any tests. I might not mention my extended "holiday" here in 2006! The up-side, if there is one, is that I'll get to keep my UK licence. The downside is that my UK bus licence can't be converted to a NZ one - apparently we have "stricter requirements here."

Oh take me back to Africa where red tape is much less prevalent and oh so easily avoided.

Sunday 17 May 2009

L and R

And I don't mean left and right. It's the strange habit of switching the "L" and "R" that Far East Asians seem to have.

The other week I was in the local takeaway shop and got excited at the chance for a feed of felafel only to be told, by the Chinese woman behind the counter, that they had "lun out". In a joking manner I tried to get the lady to say "run". Nope she couldn't pick up the difference. So we tried "ring" as I repeatedly rung the counter's bell - much to my brother's amusement. "Ring the bell." of course came out as "Ling the bell." "Ring"? "Ling"! It was very funny and she took it on good humour. I ended up without felafel and just had chips.

And it's not only when spoken. Just a couple of days ago I hit the local Asian food warehouse, which is a treasure trove of everything from the Middle East through to Japan, only to find that the miso soup instructions said to "... stir gentry until ..." Stir gentry? Am I supposed to add some of the upper class to the soup? Is this a recipe for proletarian revenge?

Friday 15 May 2009

Reflections on hot rods

Strolling through Cathedral Square in Christchurch today I stopped to look at the hot rods on display. All of a sudden I came over all arty and noticed the incredible reflections offered by the the chrome finished bumpers and highly polished roofs and fenders. The following photos got it out of my system.

They are a 1957 Ford Customline 300 (photos 1 and 2), a 1955 Chevy replica (photo 3), a 1935 Ford Tudor (photos 4 and 5) and a 1923 Ford Model T (photo 6).


1


2


3


4


5

6

And this has brought a new track to the myPod. "Love Shack" by the B-52s....

Christchurch's artie stuff

Christchurch seems to have a lot of displays of art like stuff. I'm sure there's a proper word for permanently on display works of art shown in a public space, but I can't remember it. Alzheimer's here I come...

Anyway, so far, without even trying I've found some pretty incredible things. Like this park that's dedicated to dyslexics. It should help (as the t-shirt says) "Dyslexics Untie." Seriously though, it is really nice and has sit-down activated speeches.



Then there's the Firefighters memorial made from steel girders from the Twin Towers. The piece suspended in the centre of the larger bit in the background apparently comes form the 102nd floor! It's a very bizarre work of art, but also very thought provoking - especially as 343 firefighters died that day.



But the artwork isn't only modern. This building really caught my eye. Erected in 1929 as a combined streetlight, telephone box and clock tower it has really weird gargoyles spouting, not water, but the street lamps.

Thursday 14 May 2009

The number 19 bus

With the Surly out of action until I fix the puncture - my first two attempts failing miserably! - I took the bus to get to the University. This should have been easy, afterall Christchurch has an integrated bus system where you can jump on, pay a fare and then transfer at the Bus Exchange (or elsewhere) for free.

Arriving at the Bus Exchange I looked at the board and saw that the bus I'd picked wasn't coming for another ten minutes, but there was a number 19 bus going in two minutes. A quick check of my trusty bus route guide showed that the number 19 also goes past the university, so I jumped on. Eight minutes saved! After about five minutes the bus didn't seem to be heading in the right direction. After ten I was convinced it wasn't. I was on the right numbered bus but going in the wrong direction! Bollocks. So I got off, crossed the road and waited for the next bus back via the bus exchange and onto the university.

A half hour trip turned into an hour and a half, but I've got to laugh at the irony of having driven an overland truck through cities ten times the size of Christchurch without getting (too) lost and then being unable to catch the right bus.

First puncture

Sixteen hundred kilometres. One thousand miles. All the way from Auckland to Christchurch without a single puncture. All that way with a spare tube, a pump and tyre repair kit, even a spare tyre and nothing. Now during a quick 3km ride into town and back where "I won't need all that" I go and ride over this...



It was lying in the cycle lane, stealthily waiting for me to ride by before it leapt. It went through the bottom of the tyre and out the sidewall and the tyre went down faster than greased-up pig in a waterslide. So I walked the final 1km home. Even so Christchurch is still a gret place to ride around. And it's got a sense of humour about it all. Having said that I'll probably fall victim to the tram tracks next time I'm out on the bike...

One up to the fridge salesman

Sunday was Mother's Day here in New Zealand and with Mum having just moved here without a fridge (I don't know why) my brother Vaughan and I decided to do the proper thing and buy her one. Talk about a Laurel and Hardy event. Vaughan's girlfriend had told us we had to get a fridge/freezer with the fridge on the top so it'd be easier for Mum to get into. But they were all about $100 more. Surely it's neither that expensive to engineer the fridge on the top, nor that hard to lean down to get into the fridge. We traipsed around about four places before we came across a 20% off sale and Ken the switched on salesman. Up until Ken all the sales people had been happy to answer our questions and let us go, but Ken was in for the kill. Vaughan and I weren't going to be intimidated, oh no.

Vaughan said that he was after a fridge for Mum and Ken must have picked me as a friend because at one point he asked what sort of fridge my Mum had. Duh! Do we really look that different?

One of Ken's opening gambits in trying to get us to buy the more expensive fridge-on-top model was to ask me "Why do you work?" Without even waiting for my answer he sailed straight into line two of this winning sales pitch only to be interrupted with me saying"I don't work. I haven't worked for ages." His semi-stunned look had Vaughan laughing, but Ken wasn't thrown off for long. His second gambit was to ask me why I put petrol in my car; Sorry Ken, wrong again, I don't have a car. At this point I felt it only fair to tell Ken "And before you go any further, no I'm not married, I don't have a girlfriend and I'm not gay either." All of this was in good humour and we all chuckled as Ken sought to find the winning sales pitch.

But Ken wasn't to be put off, he then tried the "She's your Mum, you owe her" track. Which we do, but we were still pretty set on the fridge-on-bottom for $100 less, so we asked for a few minutes to have a think about it. Vaughan rang Melissa, his girlfriend and got a bollocking for even considering the fridge-on-bottom model, so we went back in and bought the fridge-on-top one.

So in the end Ken won. No extra discount, not even a crappy toaster thrown in. And we left thinking we'd won! Maybe everyone did.

Wednesday 6 May 2009

They say "Travel changes you"

It sure does. Look at what it's done to my hands. I look like a forty a day smoker. They're tan lines, honest guv'.


Christchurch

I've never liked Christchurch. Growing up in a hilly, harbour city (Dunedin) and then moving to another one (Wellington), I've never understood how people can live in a flat town like Christchurch. Oh yeah it's got the port hills but they're mere bumps and on the edge of town. Having been here less than a week though the place is starting to grow on me. And on the Surly. Sans panniers I am racing everywhere at nearly twice the speed I was on tour. I hit 32km/h today with the help of a wee tailwind ON THE FLAT! Hmmmm. I might have to re-evaluate my opinion of the place.

In the centre of town there's Cathedral Square which features the cathedral (funny that),

one of those big chess sets



and this great big ice cream cone that my brother helped make.

And today is super sunny, even if yesterday was rainy and tomorrow's supposed to be more of the same.

Sunday 3 May 2009

Into Christchurch

A wee session on the blog and then frantic packing and a hurried four kilometre cycle got me to The Mak, a pub near the Waimakariri River, and one of Vaughan's regular stops on his Harley outings. Fearing that his text warning "gay lycra cycle shorts aren't allowed at the mac" I quickly pulled on some trousers. It was a good thing too as few of Vaughan's mates pulled up for their Sunday ride. He'd told them yesterday that he was going to meet me and that I'd ridden down from Christchurch. I don't know if they realised we weren't on motorbikes!



Mum dropped Vaughan off and looked after his four year-old daughter Meika for the day as we ambled our way into town. A couple of beers at the Mak and we were off - after I'd disconnected Vaughan's rear brakes so the buckled wheel could turn freely! I soon realised how slow the weight and air resistance of all my gear makes me. Vaughan - wearing jeans and a sweatshirt tore off on what he claims is his first bike ride on a "treadly" since he was a kid. I caught him and at one point passed him as he took the safe route around a roundabout rather than just cycling through like I did. A cry of "You f**kin' cheat!" had me in stitches. A couple of minutes latter we arrived at O'Sheas, a massive twenty five minutes and twelve k's from the Mak. Vaughan was puffing and blowing like a racehorse and had to order our drinks by the reliable "point and nod" method.

From O'Sheas we had a relaxed ride to our third and last pub. It was a great day and though only 16km in total (the shortest of the entire trip) I fell asleep on Vaughan's sofa after we'd put the bikes away. Vaughan's convinced that we'll go for more rides in the future.



So that's it. Riding over for now. 29 days. 1665km. Auckland to Christchurch. It's a bit hard to believe. I can't say I've loved it all, but I've loved it. What a trip. I'm almost tempted to throw in that nauseating Americanism "It's been a journey..." but let's get real. All I did was get up each day, throw my leg over the bike and ride a wee way. I've just been really lucky to have the opportunity and to see it all. Now if only this weather would improve maybe I can do some more.... which I suppose gives us a closing myPod song "Weather With You" by Crowded House.


Saturday 2 May 2009

Waiau to Kaiapoi

Boy was it cold this morning. I don't know when fog becomes mist or mist becomes cloud but looking out this morning I couldn't see too far. It was like a lovely Scottish Outer Hebrides "haar". With no wind to clear it the fog could have stayed well into the day until the sun burned it off, so I set out. Only a couple of hundred metres into the days ride I had to cross a long one lane bridge. Aware that the karma cycling gods were on my side I stopped for this picture. Just after I left the bridge three cars came speeding past....


I was surprised to see quite a few vehicles without their lights on in the fog and travelling well too fast to stop in the road they could see ahead. I had my flashing lights on front and rear and stayed well to the left. The fog cleared after about an hour and a half some 25km latter in Culverden and from then on the sun shone strongly all day. The air temperature though was still pretty low.



There were only two minor climbs all day and after Waikari it was all downhill to Waipara. I was passed by a couple on a tandem at one point. At Waipara I rejoined state highway one for the last 58km into Christchurch. I was travelling well an could feel the northerly breeze behind me. I'd originally planned to spend the night at Amberley but arrived there before 1:30pm, so I took a quick photo of the statue of Charles Upham and headed on. One of only three men to win two Victoria Crosses, Upham is a national hero and is the only person to receive the VC and Bar (two VCs) for combat roles. (The other two chaps got theirs for rescuing wounded under fire.)


From Amberley it's 30km to Kaiapoi where my aunt and uncle live and only a further 20km into Christchurch. About 20km out I decided I'd better rig them rather than just show up, but nobody answered. I rang my brother in Christchurch and he offered to come and pick me up. "No way," I said. "I've cycled through wind and rain and up and down all sorts of hills. I'm not going to get 'picked up!' I'm riding the whole way." Vaughan had sent me a text a week or so ago and said he'd ride out to meet me. I thought he mant on his Harley, but he was going to do it on a pushbike! There was no way I'd miss that, so I pushed on.

Just north of Kaiapoi is the Pegasus development. It's a massive, planned urban area that will feature a hotel, a school, shops, a golf course and all manner of other amenities. Right now it's got a lovely gateway and about six houses. With the recession it could become a white elephant, but good luck to them.


Further phone call attempts in Kaiapoi went unanswered so I stopped in Subway for a sandwich - yummy, and their revised veggie patties are now vegan - and another phone call attempt. Still no answer, so I rode around to their house where I could see my uncle through the window. Brilliant! Ring the doorbell.... no response. Hmmm? Look in the window again... Yes there he is. Ah, he's on the phone. Ok. Wait.... wait a bit more. No sign of him now, so ... ring the doorbell, and... you guessed it. Nothing. I didn't want to go wandering around banging on windows but this looked like the only option until my Auntie Denise pulled up. Thank heavens.

It was good to see them but I noticed immediately that they were in the process of packing up home to move. It seems the whole family's moving at the moment. I'm about to have a go at settling in Christchurch, my mother has just moved to Christchurch lat week and now Auntie Denise and Uncle Randall are moving in with their daughter, Lauren, IN CHRISTCHURCH.

We rang Mum who was surprised to hear I'd made it that far in one day - it was my longest day 106km - and she came out for dinner. With everything packed up though, we had to make do with couple of bowls and some mugs. Over dinner we caught up o everyone's news and I spent a bit of time showing them my photo book of Kids' Week, from Harare last year. It was great to talk about it and it made me want to go back and teach there at some stage. But for now there's one day left to ride. Kaiapoi to Christchurch, a 20km pub crawl on bikes with Vaughan. This will be a laugh....

Friday 1 May 2009

Kaikoura to Waiau

It was raining at he hostel when I got up this morning. The hostel normally has a magnificent view of the bay where whales can sometimes be spotted. The highlight of the rained in view was this lovely paua shell which like so many in New Zealand doubles as an ashtray. The swirling blue and green colours of the shell are used in jewelry too and in Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, I've seen paua shell listed as a precious stone used for marble inlay!






Anyway as fate would have it the rain had stopped by the time I left. Right on the outskirts of town and as a reminder of my rant yesterday I spotted this sign. Maybe a few more could be erected north of Kaikoura. (I saw one for sale in a junk shop between Waiau and Christchurch too!) Having passed the sign and pleased that drivers would be much more aware I turned off the main highway onto the Alpine Pacific Triangle, or SH70, or the Inland Kaikoura route. Instantly there was no traffic. Another day and road virtually to myself.






The first twelve kilometres is an undetectable slow climb and I was averaging about 12-13km/h. At his rate it was going to take all day, but once the road levelled off my speed picked up again. The route follows valleys up to a couple of passes and the countryside is mostly sheep stations. I even spotted some shepherds practicing their sheep dog skills, trialling being a minor sport around here. It's pretty popular and back in the 70s there was a TV show every weekend featuring NZs top sheep dog triallists - they even had the occasional trans-Tasman clash against the Aussies! The show was "A Dog Show" and had an instrumental version of 'Flowers on the Wall" as it's theme - I bet Quentin Tarantino didn't get the desired result amongst NZ audiences when Butch starts singing along to 'Flowers' during Pulp Fiction!








The road is beautiful and dips into and climbs out of river valleys. Some of the drops in and out are over 100m but generally it's a steady climb from the sea to the high point of 500m just before Mt Lyford. Only one loaded logging truck passed me all day and I don't know if it's karma or what but it passed when I was pulled off the road eating my lunch. Weird???






Mt Lyford is a skiing area and I stopped off at the lodge for a pot of tea and to warm myself by the fire. It's a lovely place (and $4 for a tea's not too bad). From there its downhill and free wheeling almost the entire 23km to Waiau, but once again the rain came back in to finish my day. Karma again???



In Waiau a new national champion chip buttie source was found. Great chips and plenty of tomato sauce. A huge feed too. Well done Waiau.

The camp ground is noce too and I had the place almost to myself with the only other people a couple who are in the area trappng possums to prevent the spread of TB to the local cattle.

And I watched one of the funniest shows I've seen on NZ TV, it featured a real gem from a guy called Gish - a takeoff of The Eagles 'Hotel California' reworked as 'Big Girl in the Corner' which I'll make today's classic and dedicate to my good mate Stu Stone who at one time had a run in with one too many of these big girls. (Note - this has a PG rating.)

Thursday 30 April 2009

Pedallers Rest to Kaikoura

Today started with John Lennon's '(Just Like) Starting Over' as I skated my way back down the 1 1/2km gravel road to the highway with cool temperatures and a gentle southerly to turn into. The road is pretty flat all the way and follows the coast and the main trunk railway line. At times all you could hear was the sound of the surf coming in from the Pacific ocean (which stretches all the way to Chile!).



The wind dropped away to nothing for the the first 30km and the sun came out which was great. At one point I spotted a kea which is New Zealand's alpine parrot. At least I think it was a kea.

Unfortunately, like a lot of New Zealand's busier highways the stretch through to Kekerenga has a very narrow (non-existent in places) shoulder and I had some fun with the big trucks. (See my earlier posted rant.) At one point thought there were roadworks which meant that traffic was stopped and formed into short convoys, so I'd have the road to myself for about five minutes then a one minute blast of vehicles. But I did find a cellphone after being blasted off the road and to me that's karma and today's myPod classic 'Instant Karma' also by John Lennon.



Along the coastline there're many places to stop and one compulsory one is for the fur seal colony. I smelt them before I saw them but they come right up to and even onto the road to sun themselves. The coast is also famous for its crayfish with several shops and roadside vans selling freshly cooked crays. Kaikoura literally translates as kai- food, koura- crayfish or lobster. There were even a few hardy souls out surfing today despite the cold weather. I suppose it's all the same in the water, but I'd hate to try and stagger out afterwards with frozen feet.



I didn't see any other cyclists today and as I headed closer to Kaikoura the wind and rain started. The rain got heavier and heavier and by 2:30pm when I arrived I was pretty soaked, but it was good to get here. I headed to the Dolphin Lodge which Denise at Pedallers rest had recommended. After moving in I headed out to Hine Takeaways for a very fine feed of chips which will rank very highly in the final chip buttie stakes.

I'm sharing my dorm room with an Israeli couple. They seem to be everywhere. I reckon they probably travel as much as, if not more than, Kiwis.

Tomorrow it's off SH1 and up the Alpine Pacific Triangle into the mountains. And I'm told there could be snow.....